Madurai

Madurai is one of oldest city of south India and has a long, great history. To its great pride this is one city that was ruled by Parvati and Shiva themselves as Meenakshi, Sudaresvarar. It is no wonder that all the rulers had given great importance to temple of Meenakshi and Sudaresvarar. Signs of human settlements and Roman trade links dating back to 300 BCE are evident from excavations by Archeological Survey of India in Manalur. Madurai is mentioned in the works of Roman historians Pliny the Younger (61 – c. 112 CE), Ptolemy (c. 90 – c. CE 168), those of the Greek geographer Strabo (64/63 BCE – c. 24 CE), and also in Periplus of the Erythraean Sea. The recorded history of the city starting from early third centaury shows that the city was always had the importance of the capital of the rulers. The Pandiyas dynasty is one major ruler who had played an important role in Tamil Nadu history. Throughout they continued to have Madurai as the capital is to be noted.

Madurai during different periods

While the present Madurai is the third Madurai, the first one had been swept under the sea so also the second one. Pandiyas were the rulers of the region and all the three Madurai was capital of Pandiyas. Pandiyas were patrons of Tamil language and had honored learned men of the language. Madurai was not only capital of Pandiyas but also of the Tamil. The assembly of scholars of the language known as ‘Tamil Sangam’ was flourishing under the patronage of the Pandiya kings. Broadly the period of this patronage of nearly ten thousand years had been split into three Tamil sangam period. While these are of academic in nature, normally the third Tamil Sangam and the Pandiya kings of this period are discussed. Many of the information about the Pandian kings and Madurai of this time are available in literature, inscriptions.

Madurai and its first fort

The description of the city of Madurai had been vividly given in the literature “Maduraikkanchi” a 2-3rd century work by Mangudi Marudanar. This work is the longest poem having 782 lines. The lines 327 to 724 describes the plan and layout of Madurai city; structure of the palace; four types of armed forces; shops during day and then night; festivals; customs and practices of the people; life of prostitutes; special features of Madurai and likes.

The author while telling about the city entrance describes the fortification of the city that is encircled with deep moat and the high raised ramparts. The gateways of the city are ancient and strong. The gateways had high towers and strong and heavy doors guarded by deities. The doors are well oiled. Then the author likens Vaigai to Madurai and says that the crowds at the entrance of Madurai are always moving like a perennial running Vaigai. The width of streets is as wide as that of the river with houses on both sides. Least we should think of ordinary houses the author says they are “in the well laid multi-layered” [பல்புழை நல் இல்] that is, houses with many windows/balcony with beautifully decorated works.

It is clear from the above that Madurai had a fort with moat and great strong gateway with guardian deities even as early as 2-3rd century.

Madurai Fort built by Nayaks

This fort of Pandiya period had Sri Meenakshi Temple as the fulcrum and the city encompassing. Archeologists are of the opinion that then fort of Pandiyas were within the present Avani Moola streets. Then the city came under the rule of Madurai Nayaks and city was expanded. New fort was built by them which formed the outer circle of the earlier fort built by Pandiays. Even this fort built by Nayaks was brought down during the British rule, to facilitate further expansion of the city. Thus Madurai had two forts at different time.

Remains of Madurai forts

What remains today to remind us about the old fort built by Pandiyas is a physical partial structure of a then gate on the eastern side of Sri Meenakshi temple. There is a stone inscription installed by Philip on the Eastern Gate, which is widely known as Vitta Vaasal, reads: "This structure was formerly the eastern gate way of the old Pandian fort. Any person destructing, defacing, removing, altering or in any way injuring any part of it or causing it to be so damaged will be prosecuted." There is temple for Sri Muniswaran the guardian deity of the Eastern gate. To remind us about the then moat there is a street with the name “Mela Pandian Agazh Theru”.

The fort built by Nayaks is said to have had seventy two watch towers. One of the 72 bastions can be seen near Central Periyar Bus stand in west Veli Street.

Entrance to the fort

According to scholars of history the Madurai during Nayaks time was limited to Masi streets only. The fort which existed during Nayak’s period had been pulled down during British raj. For expanding the Madurai beyond the fort, the fort was demolished. Blackburn pulled down the fort. The moat was given away for the people who can fill the moat at their cost. Surveyor Marret and Perumal Maistry the supervisor played a major role in this process. The present Marret streets and Veli Streets formed the moat of Madurai fort. Perumal Maistry streets are where the fort walls were.

The fort which had seventy two bastions had main gates-entrance in all directions also. Today the area where the fort entrances existed is known as Vadakku vaasal, Kizhakku vaasal, Therkku vassal, etc.

Vadakku Vaasal

Given alongside is the map from Google, with Vadakkuvaasal Sri Hanumar kovil marked. The temple connects North Masi Street and North Veli Street and there is a thoroughfare. Devotee can enter the temple from either street. Kindly note that north Perumal Maistry Street is interrupted by the temple, in other words it could be said that the wall of fort stops there for bastion or entrance of the fort. It could be a probability that the northern entrance – vadakku vaasal of the fort was in existence this point. The probability increases further because of presence of Sri Hanuman temple at this point. The width and length of the temple complex could is comparable to the entrance of any other fort of that time. This could be compared with the bastion that is still remaining in periyar from where corporation office is functioning, its relative positioning with west Veli Street, west Marret Street and west Perumal Maistry Street. This further supports the possibility of positioning of Vadakku Vaasal of the then fort of Nayaks’ period.

Hanuman protector of Fort

Hanuman has been worshiped as protector of the village or rajya and deity who gives strength, valor to the men, women headman / king. This is especially true belief of the kings of Vijayanagara samrajya. In many of the forts built or maintained by the feudatory kings of Vijayanagara Samrajya, Sri Hanuman had been installed as guardian deity. It is common to find a temple for Sri Hanuman in forts built by these rulers. Madurai Nayaks are one of the wellknown feudal lords of Vijayanagara samrajya, therefore it is no wonder that when they built fort at Madurai they also installed guardian deity Sri Hanuman. In Madurai one such temple for Sri Hanuman is found in the Northern entrance of the fort. In Tamil Northern entrance is known as “Vadakku Vaasal”.

Sri Hanuman temple complex

As said earlier, devotee could enter the temple either from north Veli Street or north Masi Street. On the north Veli Street the entrance to the temple has a single tier gopuram which has an arch at the center depicting Sri Sita, Sri Rama and Sri Lakshmana. On the two sides of the gopuram two more arches are seen in which Yoga Narashima and Yoga Anjaneya had been portrayed. Next to the Yoga Anjaneya arch is a very exquisitely designed arch in which Sri Rama darbar had been portrayed. By the side of Yoga Narasimha, Anjaneya siting on the seat made of His tail is depicted. All these made of mortar and cement are wonderful piece of art work. On entering after an open space we see the sannidhi of Sri Anjaneya on the right side. On the left of the Anjaneya sannidhi is Vinayaka and on the right is Sri Krishna. On the three sides of east facing sannidhi of Sri Anjanaya Yoga Anjaneya in south, Panchamukha Anjaneya on west, Bhaktha Anjaneya on North had been installed as koshta devata. Just then we could see a pipal tree under which Sri Marriamman sannidhi is present. Few naga predhista are also seen here. We could see a long pathway adjacent to this which leads to north Masi Street.

Sri Hanuman

Sri Hanuman of this kshetra is facing east. The murtham made of granite stone is around three feet tall and the carving is of ‘ardha shila’ style.

Lord is seen walking northwards with His left lotus foot in the front. His right lotus foot is seen slightly raised from the ground. Both His feet are adorning nupuram and thandai. His left hand is seen resting on the left hip and in his hand he is holding the stem of sowgandika flower. The flower which is still to bloom is seen above His left shoulder. Bracelet in wrist and keyuram in the upper arm are seen. With His other hand raised above He showers blessings on His devotees. He is wearing ornaments which adorn His bosom. Yagnopaveetham and uttriyam are also seen. The tail of the Lord is raised above His head with a curved end which adorns a small beautiful bell. The Lord is wearing kundalam and His kesam is neatly tied into tuft. A beautiful small crown as headgear adds majesty. to Lords look. His radiant eyes are seen showering benevolence on the devotee.

Experience

For nearly two hundred years of Nayaks rule He had protected the city and people, stood by the rulers against all adversity, is still eager to protect His devotee against any hardship and guiding him in the righteous path.

Ed: August 2023