Thanjavur as Capital city

Thanjavur was the capital of Cholas. Following the downfall of Chola rule in the 13th century, the Thanjavur area came under the rule of the Pandyas, then, following the invasion of Malik Kafur, it fell into disorder.

Thanjavur had not gained the limelight till the rulers of the Vijayanagara Empire focused their attention on it. Vijayanagara Kings captured the reign of Thanjavur in the 14th Century AD. Sevvappa Nayak (AD 1549-1572), a Viceroy of the Vijayanagara Empire assumed independent charge and founded the dynasty of the Thanjavur Nayaks. He built a new Fort Sivaganga Fort - named after him – encompassing the Brihadeeswara Temple. Thanjavur remained the capital of the Nayaks for the next one hundred and twenty-five years till the reign of Vijayaraghava - the last prince in the line. It is well known the Nayaks, who hailed from Vijayanagara, are great devotees of Lord Hanuman and drew their strength from Him and kept their valour and zeal in high spirits.

Marathas’ of Thanjavur

While Nayaks, the rulers of Thanjavur were loyal to the Vijayanagara kingdom, Nayaks of Madurai (Alagiri) wanted to capture the power of Thanjavur and were successful in overthrowing the then Ruler Vijayaraghavan of Thanjavur Nayaks. A son of Vijayaraghavan induced the Bijapur Sultan to help get him back to Thanjavur's throne. In 1675, the Sultan of Bijapur sent a force commanded by the Maratha general Venkoji (alias Ekoji and half-brother of Sivaji) to recapture the kingdom from the new invader. Venkoji defeated Alagiri and occupied Thanjavur. He did not, however, place his protege on the throne as instructed by the Bijapur Sultan, but seized the kingdom and made himself king. Thus began the rule of the Marathas over Thanjavur.

Culture and Religious activities

During the Chola period, Periya kovil acted as a cultural center where medical facilities were extended to the citizens and housing for performing artists was taken care of. The culture established during this period continued further in Thanjavur. After a lull, during the period of Nayaks rule and Marathas rule the cultural and religious activities in Thanjavur were revived. During these times it was at its peak turning Thanjavur into a powerhouse of Culture. Art, sculpture, and performing art like music, and dance flourished with new and innovative ideas. Both these dynasties patronised these activities. Literature saw a new height. On the religious front, new temples were built and old ones were renovated. On the welfare side, new waterways, and roadways were built, and tax collection was made simple and easy. Courts functioned for the established law.

Pilgrimage Route to Rameswaram

With the advent of Ramanandi Sampradaya by Ramananda in north India and the bhakti movement in south India, devotees took to pilgrimage to many sacred places in India. The practice of going on pilgrimage to Varanasi for devotees of the south, and pilgrimage to Rameswaram for the devotees of the North saw new heights and rejuvenation. Most rulers extended support and facilities for these devotees on pilgrimage and Thanjavur rulers are no exception. Especially during the Maratha rule, it was taken as a social, educative, and welfare cause. Efforts were made to provide these devotees on pilgrimage, the facilities they require for this long journey and at the same time provide food, sustenance work, medical attention, and education to the local people. Marathas of Thanjavur devised a unique method to provide these.

Chatrams, Chavadis and thaneer pandal

Chatrams are a wayside inn that provides food and shelter to the pilgrims. Chavadis is the resting place or a temporary shed used for common welfare activity. Normally chavadis are used for collecting tax at the entry point to the city from people coming into the town for business/trade etc. Marathas formed a trust for these chatrams and their maintenance. The senior queen managed the trust that took care of the welfare activities like providing food, attending to sick pilgrims, etc. The chatrams extended facilities for educating the pupils and provided food and stay for these students.

There were more than 20 inns during the Maratha rule from 1743 to 1837. Most of the inns were built for the relaxation of the pilgrims who were on their way to Rameswaram, and these inns provided food to all the pilgrims without any discrimination.

In many places ‘thaneer pandal’ has also been set up during the summer providing water, and buttermilk for the pilgrimages. A few villages were donated to each inn. All proceeds from the specified land were spent on managing the inn. Food was prepared from grains grown on subsidized village lands and distributed to inns.

Travellers who fall sick at the chatram or before their arrival receive medicine and a proper diet and are attended to with respect and kindness till their recovery.

Chatrams

All the chatrams established by the Marathas had excellent buildings for housing pilgrims, students, and teachers. Cooking places, big halls for the gathering people and the halls were also used for function, etc. Most of the Chatrams had a huge water tank and a small temple. This feature is seen in all the chatrams built by the Maratha rulers.

Appas of Thanjavur

The Marathas who came and settled in Thanjavur were of two sects. One faction was called ‘Cannaugulya’ [शहाण्णव कुळी – ninety-six families]. Royals and relatives are in this category. Marathas who belong to the army, and the Guards are the other branches. The intermarriage between them is not prohibited. When any of these two branches marries a local, the offspring are not considered Marathas, even though they speak Marathi. These offspring were denoted with a special surname ‘Appa’ or ‘Anna’. Most of them were rewarded with a good position in government. Name a few of these Appas - Manaji appa, Dathaji appa, Muththoji appa, Malarji appa, who are well known and some streets or localities have been named after them.

Mothirappa Chavadi

The place Mothirappa Chavadi is on the outskirts of the present Thanjavur, on the road that connects Thanjavur with Kodikkarai. Kodikkarai is located in Rameswaram. The highway laid during the olden days leading to Rameswaram had been named Kodikkarai perumsalai. In earlier days pilgrims who were moving from north of India to Rameswaram took the route via Chidambaram, Kumbakonam, and this highway to reach Rameswaram. There were many chatrams built on this highway by the rulers during the Maratha time. As explained earlier these chatrams used to provide all facilities including medical needs to the pilgrims who were on the move to Rameswaram.

As narrated earlier Chavadis were established at almost all the exit and entry points for collection of tax from the persons who are required to pay tax to the treasury. The job of collecting the tax was entrusted to the trusted persons of the rulers. The revenue collection at this chavadi might have been entrusted to an officer named Mothirappa and therefore it is presumed this chavadi got this name.

During the regime of Serfoji manufacturing of cotton and silk cloth was encouraged. Growing of cotton was encouraged, but a tax was laid for growing of cotton. To make cotton or silk as thread and to make it as cloth a separate tax was laid. This tax is known as ‘Moturpha’ [tax on looms] as per the old records. It is possible that such taxes were to be paid at this particular Chavadi, and hence it might have got the name Mothirappa Chavadi.

Mothirappa Chavadi or Chatram

A close look at the present site one could see that this Chavadi established for collection of tax was also discharging the duties of a Chatram. The defunct water tank, a temple for Sri Hanuman, and ruins of an old building, all indicate that this chavadi was also functioning as Chatram.

Temple for Sri Hanuman

To reach the Hanuman temple presently one had to take the side road adjacent to the newly constructed overbridge. The location is known as Evergreen Nagar and the road is ‘Hanuman Kovil Street’. The temple with a fairly big compound is located on the left side, which can be seen from a distance. The environment is good with trees all around. The temple is south-facing. The temple is compact and has a compound wall.

The entrance of this temple is through the arch with two pillars, and resting on two pillars a beautifully rendered stucco figure in mortar mold of Sri Rama, Sita, Lakshmana, and Anjaneya. After entering the temple through the main arch, the sanctum sanctorum is located in the center of a big mandapam (a decorated porch). In front of the sanctorum, there is a long verandah. The façade of the temple has an elegant four-foot-tall stucco figure of Sri Anjaneya with mace in His left hand and his right hand showing ‘abhaya mudra’.

On the three sides of the vimanam of the sanctum is a similar figure of Sri Anjaneya. There is a path around this for devotees to make circumambulation.

Hanumar

Sri Anjaneya moortham is made of granite stone in an embossed form known as ‘ardha shila’ and is about four feet tall. Sri Anjaneya moortham is facing south and Sri Anjaneya is seen walking eastward with His left foot forward.

Both the lotus feet of the Lord are adorned with thandai and nupur. Lord is wearing a dhoti in kacham style and a girdle made of a triple string of mouja-grass. The hip belt holds a small knife. His left hand adorning keyuram in his upper arm and bracelet in the forearm is seen folded upward and holding ‘Sanjeevi parvadham’. The bahu-vallayam adds beauty to His shoulders. The yagjopaviitam is seen across His broad chest. He is wearing two malas as ornaments, one of which has a pendant adorning His bosom. He is wearing an ornament close to His neck. With His raised right hand showing ‘abhaya mudra’ He showers fearlessness and blessings on His devotees. The tail of the Lord rises above His head, the end of which is slightly coiled. Lord is wearing ear studs which are touching His shoulders. Lord is also wearing ‘Karna pushpam’ in His ears. The ‘kora pal’ i.e. the projected tooth of the Lord adds to His beauty. His bright eyes are radiating compassion on the devotee. Neatly combed ‘shika’ tied in a knot could be seen on the side of the right ear.

 

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SRI HANUMAN THINKS DIFFERENTLY, THINKS FAST
THINKS AHEAD AND ACTS FOR SURE

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Ed [April 2022]
Updates: [Jan 2025]

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