Photos by Sri Raghunathan, Chennai

Saints of Varanasi

According to the 'Vamana Purana', the Varuna and Assi are two rivers that originated from the body of the primordial Purusha. The tract of land lying between the two rivers is believed to be 'Varanasi', the holiest of all pilgrimage centres - a city in existence from time immemorial that has enlightened many Rishis and Saints. The ante diluvian culture preserved by this great city is the standing testimony to the grandeur of the past. Varanasi is the microcosm of Hinduism, a city of traditional classical culture. Glorified by myth and legend and sanctified by religion, it has always attracted a large number of pilgrims and seekers of soul. The city is also known as 'Kasipuri' and the word 'Kas' means to shine.

Varanasi

While there were many saints and Rishis who had lived in this city, famous among them are saints of comparatively recent times, namely Sri Goswami Tulsidasji, Sri Kabir dasji, and Sri Ramanathji. The works of all these saints are virtually worshipped and are renowned for the philosophical ideas preached therein. The work of Sri Goswami Tulsidasji is remembered by many as the language used therein was easily understood by even a commoner. At the same time, the pundits also found them to be valuable.

Sri Tulsidasji : a devotee of Lord Hanuman

There will be hardly any devotee of Lord Anjaneya who will be unaware of the forty slokas composed by Sri Tulsidasji titled "Hanuman Chalisa". This is the most powerful and popular composition recited by the devotees of Lord Anjaneya the world over. The devotion this hymn develops towards the Lord is enormous and has to be experienced and enjoyed. If millions could experience the devotion, the power with which the hymn had been composed could be well estimated. His devotion towards Lord Hanuman is well beyond estimation. This is a siddha grantha and Sri Tulsidasji, a siddha purusha.

Assi Ghat

This Ghat of Kashi is one of the most important ancient Ghat and is situated as the southernmost Ghat of Varanasi. It is the first ghat of Varanasi where river Ganga and river Assi (now extinct) confluence, hence bathing in this one ghat is equal to the virtues of all other ghats put together. Earlier the area of this ghat was till Bhaidani Ghat. In the 19th century, this Ghat was divided into five ghats- Assi, Reenva, Tulsi, and Bhaidani.

The great saint Tulsidas had lived in this ghat during his last days and had breathed his last while living in this Ghat. As mentioned the portion of the Ghat where he had lived had been named after him as “Tulsi Ghat”. Raja Todar Mal was a good friend and devotee of saint Tulsidas had gifted the place for his living in this Ghat.

Raja Todar Mal

Todar Mal started his career in the humble position of a writer but slowly moved up the ranks in the regime of Sultan Sher Shah Suri. With the downfall of the Suri dynasty, he continued to be a faithful public servant during the Mughals. During the regain of Emperor Akbar, he continued to enjoy the confidence of the Emperor. He rose to become the Finance Minister in Akbar's Darbar in 1560. Todar Mal overhauled the revenue system of Akbar's Mughal Empire. He was well-versed in Sanskrit, Persian, and Hindustani languages and had translated Bhagavata Purana into Persian.

A committed hero of the values of Sanatana Dharma, he was instrumental in the rebuilding of Lord Viswanath temple. Earlier it was razed to the ground by Qutab-ud-den Aibek who ransacked Varanasi in 1194. Todar Mal, the Revenue Minister of Akbar, rebuilt the temple in 1585 only to be razed again by Aurangzeb, in 1669. The temple was again rebuilt by Rani Ahilya Bai Holkar of Indore in the year 1776.

Raja Todar Mal was a great friend of Sri Tulsidas and when the saint came to settle in Kashi for the rest of his life, Todar Mal had given him a place in the Assi ghat. Todar Mal died in the year 1589.

Tulsidas migrates to Kashi

Tulsidas had lived in this city of Kashi earlier also, but when he was in the fag-end of his life he decided to settle in this city and breathe his last. He had lived at several places in Varanasi: at Panchganga Ghat, Hanuman Phatak, and the Gopala temple-all in the heart of the city – and, finally he was helped by his friend – Raja Toder Mal with a place in Assi Ghat.

The place overlooks the river, Ganga, and the flow of the river and the sound produced by its smooth flow mesmerising the onlooker. Saint Tulsidas who was an ardent devotee of Sri Rama and His Bhakta Sri Hanuman, spent his time reciting poems and in Satsang.

Tulsidas is said to have passed away here on the Assi Ghat. A famous couplet composed by Beni Madhavdas tells us of the date and year of Tulsidas’ passing away:

संवत सोलह सौ असी असी गंगके तीर।
श्रवण श्यामा तीज शनि तुलसी तज्यौ शरीर॥

Sambata Solaha Sai Assi, Assi Ganga Ke Teer|
Saavan Syaamaa Teej Shani, Tulsee Taje Shareer || -(Mool Gosain Charit)

“…In the year V.S 1680, in the month of Shravan date third, on the banks of the River Ganga, Tulsidas left his body for his supreme abode…”

Devoted to Lord Ram in thought, speech, and action, Tulsidas chanted the holy name of ‘Ram’ and left for his supreme abode on the third day of the dark fortnight in the month of Shravan in the year V.S 1680 (1623 A. D.).

Akhara Goswami Tulsidas, Tusli Ghat

Today the bhavan built by Toder Mal in Tulsi Ghat is known as Akhara Goswami Tulsidas. Till recently the rare and only pandulipi [manuscript] of Sri Ramacharitmanas dated Samavat 1704 [1648 AD] and the piece of boat Sri Goswami Tulsidas used for navigating in Ganga were on display for the public in this place. There is Gurukul run here imparting training in Sanskrit and Vedas. A portrait of Tulsidas Ji was painted during his time in this temple on one side of Sri Ram Mandir.

Tulsi Das while staying at this bhavan, used to sit in the balcony facing the Ganga mata and pray. He used to admire the beauty of Ganga mata, her flow, and the melodious sound made by her while she was on the move sitting on the balcony. The inspiration given by Ganga Mata made many verses flow from the saint.

During his stay in Kashi, Goswami Tulsidas established many adorable temples for Hanuman. These historically important temples will remain a testimony to the faith Goswami had in Sri Hanuman and remain the center for the principles for which Tulsidas lived. Of all the Hanuman temples established by Sri Goswami in Kashi is the Bal Hanuman temple at Akhara Goswami Tulsidas, Tulsi ghat.

Sri Bala Hanuman Temple

On an auspicious day, he was inspired to establish the deity of Sri Bala Hanuman. Thus he had established this Sri Bala Hanuman here. He used to pray and offer pooja to this very deity during his stay in this bhavan. The deity is facing south since the Dakshinmuki statue of Hanuman is considered quite stirring and auspicious. Sri Hanuman of this temple is more popular in Kashi as “Gufa Hanuman” [Sri Hanuman of Cave]. While this temple for Sri Hanuman is present in the lower level of the building, the upper level of the building houses a temple for Sri Ram along with Sri Sita and Sri Lakshman. Three more deities of Sri Hanuman face East, north, and west.

Prayers and festivals

Devotees come here to have their wishes fulfilled, they recite Sri Ramachandra manas, and a few of them recite kishkintha kand as per their wishes. On Tuesday and Saturday, there will be a heavy turnout of devotees to this mandir to offer their prayers to Sri Bal Hanuman. Sri Tulsi Jayanthi and Sri Hanuman Jayanthi are celebrated with pomp and show at the same time with devotion to the core.

Temple Timings:

The temple is open from 5 am to 12 noon and from 3 pm to 10 pm. Aarti is performed at 5.30 in the morning and at 8.30 in the night.

 

---

SRI HANUMAN THINKS DIFFERENTLY, THINKS FAST
THINKS AHEAD AND ACTS FOR SURE

---

Ed [May 2015]
Updates: [Jan 2025]

KINDLY RECORD YOUR VIEWS