SRI ANJANEYA SWAMI TEMPLE (Bunk), PALACE COMPLEX, THANJAVUR, TAMIL NADU...
gk kaushik
Thanjavur :
Thanjavur, rightly acclaimed as the Granary of the South India, lies in
the deltaic region of the famous river Cauvery and is a cultural treasure
house of Tamil Nadu. This was the Royal city of the Cholas, Khiliji, the
Sultan of Delhi, Nayaks and the Marattas. The notable feature is that in
spite of several alien invasions, onslaughts and internal conflicts, the
ancient culture and civilisation have not suffered much devastation. During
the reign of Cholas, Thanjavur flourished humming with trade and cultural
activities.
Shri Divya Desam of Thanjavur:
Devotion to God was prime in the minds of the then people of Thanjavur,
and all their activities were entwined with faith in God. There are many
places of worship in and around Thanjavur, both Sivait and
Vaishnavait sthalas. Nayanmargal were the Acharyas who
follow Sivaism and sung in praise of the presiding deity of the
kshethra and such kshethras are known as 'padel petra thalam'.
Azhvargal were the Acharyas who follow vaishnava cult and sung
paasuram (poems) in praise of the presiding deity of the sthala
and such sthalas are known as Shri Divya Desam. People who
follow Shri Vaishnava cult will remember the Shri Divya Desam
Shri Maamani koil of Thanjavur where Shri Neelamega Perumal is the
presiding deity and in whose praise Shri Thirumangai Azhvar had sung
beautiful paasuras.
Why name the city as Thanjavur?
It is interesting to note that the place had been named as Thanjavur by
Shri Neelamega Perumal as a grant of a last wish of His devotee turned demon
due to a curse. Tanjan got boons from Lord Siva and became arrogant and
started devastating the neighborhood. It is said that Sri Anaandavalli Thayar
(Lakshmi) and Sri Neelamega Perumal (Vishnu) killed the demon Tanjan, as
wished by Lord Siva (Lord Tanjapuriswarar). As requested by the demon this
place had been named after him as Thanjavur.
Fort of Thanjavur:
Of the many rulers of Thanjavur, the Cholas had built the grand temple
for Shri Bragatheeswara now popularly known as Big Temple. Temple is inside
the Fort known as Sivaganga Fort ascribed to the Sevvappa Nayak, which might
have also housed the then rulers' living palace. Later rulers belonging to
Nayaks and Marattas built the big fort, which encircles the city, with a
separate palace for the rulers. [The present palace is perhaps the palace
where the then rulers lived] The construction of the palace was first
initiated by the last of the Vijayaraghavas with each subsequent ruler adding
some more splendors to the palace. Though it is basically a fort, it could
well be called as a fortified Palace. Presently it is known as Palace complex
only.
Palace complex:
Today if you visit the palace complex, which forms the nucleus of the old
city, you can find a temple vimana like building around two hundred
feet high known as Goodagopuram. It is said to have been used as a
watchtower and a storehouse by the rulers. There is another tower built
during Nayaks known as Madamaligai, from where the kings use to see
the Rajagopuram of Sri Ranganatha Swami of Srirangam, which is nearly
40 KM away. The present structure is a truncated one. It is said that it was
even taller earlier and that lightning had destructed many storey. There are
two magnificent Durbar halls built during the reigns of Nayaks and Maratta
rulers.
There is a wonder treasure known as Saraswati Mahal having the collection of
very old manuscripts in palm leaf collected by Nayaks and Maratta rulers and
Sri Raja Sarafoji of Maratta dynasty had organised the library during his
regime. Sangeetha Mahal, where many musical concerts are held, is also the
part of the complex.
Nayaks' of Thanjavur and Lord Anjaneya:
Vijayanagar Kings captured reign in Thanjavur in 14th Century AD.
Sevvappa Nayak (AD 1549-1572), a Viceroy of the Vijayanager Empire assumed
independent charge and founded the dynasty of the Thanjavur Nayaks. The old
fort is known as Sivaganga Fort - named after him - and presently a beautiful
garden known as Sivaganga garden is popular. Thanjavur remained the capital
of the Nayaks for the next one hundred and twenty five years till the reign
of Vijayaraghava - the last prince in the line. It is well known the Nayaks
who hailed from Vijayanagar, are great devotees of Lord Anjaneya Swami, and
drew their strength from Him and kept their valour and zeal in high spirit.
Bunk Anjaneya:
While you are in the quadrangular courtyard in front of the Saraswati
Mahal you will see an ardha shila of Lord Jaya Veera Anjaneya, holding
a lotus flower in His hand. This is placed on the wall adjacent to the
Saraswati Mahal. It is customary for the kings to have dharshan of the
Lord before leaving the palace and to ensure victory in their missions; Lord
Anjaneya was depicted in the form of The Jaya Veera with lotus in his hand
symbolising victory.
Raghunatha Nayaka and Temple for Shri Rama:
There is another small beautiful temple for Lord Anjaneya in the complex
that attracts large number of devotees. As you move northwards from the
quadrangular courtyard through the thick walls of the fort you will end up
near the fire station situated outside the fort compound. On either side of
the wall you will see bunks meant for stationing of soldiers and the armory.
Sri Raghunatha Nayakan (1600-1645) the then ruler was an ardent devotee of
Sri Rama and had supported the propagation of Srimad Ramayana and earned the
title "Ramayana Anavrtha Ramakathamirtha Sevakan". He had built
a temple for Lord Rama in the bunk facing east and in the opposite bunk-
facing this bunk - he had installed the statue of Lord Anjaneya. Lord
Anjaneya is seen with folded hands praying to Lord Rama.
But in the course of time the main deities of the Rama temple came to be
stolen away and only the platform where the parivara idols of Lord
Rama stood was there. But today, the Rama temple is no more there and it has
been closed with brickwork. Now there is a small window kept on the brickwork
and Lord Anjaneya is looking at where Lord Rama and his parivara idols
were once.
The Temple of Lord Anjaneya:
The
temple is west facing so also Lord Anjaneya Swami. The main sanctum is raised
and the Lord Anjaneya Swami is installed there. As you enter you will see
Maha Ganapati and Navaneetha Krishnan - former in the standing posture and
the other in sitting posture. This is the uniqueness of the temples built by
the rulers of the Vijayanagar - wherever Lord Anjaneya is installed there is
either Sri Venu Gopal or some form of Lord Krishna will also be installed in
the temple premises. Similarly, wherever Sri Krishna is installed, as the
main deity there will be Sri Anjaneya as well somewhere in the temple. There
also vigrahas of Ambal and Jaya Veera Anjaneya holding a lotus in his hand.
The Lord Anjaneya vigraha is about four feet in height and the Lord is
standing majestically with folded hands (anjali hastha varadhan). His
eyes are glowing with bright golden hue and He is bestowing on the devotees
all that they wished (kamaduk). In early nineties the trustees
performed the kumbabishekam of the temple.
Next time when you are around Thanjavur make it a point to visit this small beautiful temple and bring back the blessing of the Lord Kamaduk.
[ed. november 2005]